|
What is a Pearl?
Classic and beautiful, pearls have been desired throughout history. Believed by many cultures to have healing powers, pearls are produced by nature in a remarkable biological process. When an irritant, such as a parasite or food particle, becomes trapped in the shell of an oyster, mussel, or even a snail, the animal, to protect itself, secretes a substance comprised of aragonite (calcium carbonate) and conchiolin—the same materials used to produce the animal's shell. Over time, the buildup of this organic coating, called nacre, forms a gorgeous pearl. Rare and precious, and highly prized for their beauty, natural pearls are found only in about one out of every 10,000 oysters. The odds of finding a natural, round pearl are staggeringly slim.
Most pearls sold today are cultured pearls, meaning they got their start with a little intervention. Using carefully honed techniques, pearl workers, called grafters, insert a small object into the animal's soft tissue, or mantle. (In the best pearls, the bead is made from mother-of-pearl that has been extracted from a crushed and sifted portion of an oyster shell. This results in a pearl that is 100 percent solid nacre). Thus implanted, the oysters are placed in cages and submerged in water. Periodically, they are hauled up to be inspected and cleaned. After several years, they are harvested and opened. If all goes well, a beautiful pearl will be nestled inside the mantle.
Are Cultured Pearls Real Pearls?
Yes. Quality cultured pearls are real pearls, made of the same substance as natural pearls. Due to the precision of current culturing techniques, there is virtually no difference between the two types, and it would take an expert to distinguish them. Indeed, natural pearls are seldom harvested any longer, and almost all natural pearls sold today are antiques. It is very rare today to find a pearl that hasn't been cultured.
While chances of finding a “perfect” pearl are slim, even in oysters and mussels that have been cultured, culturing techniques are constantly improving, and the odds are getting better all the time. As a result, cultured pearls rival natural pearls in luster, beauty, color, and size (many people still think of cultured pearls as rice-shaped, but improvements in grafting techniques mean that beautiful round cultured pearls are produced as well). Imitations exist, but fakes can be easily determined by rubbing the gems against your teeth. Real pearls, which are comprised of layers upon layers of organic material, will feel slightly gritty, while fakes, often made of glass or plastic, will be smooth to the touch.
How to Buy Quality Pearls
While there is no system of international grading for pearls as there are for other gems, there are important factors that should be considered prior to purchase; namely, size, luster, shape, color, nacre thickness, and surface.
Size Pearls can vary greatly in size, from as tiny as a pinhead to as large a chicken's egg. All other things being equal, size will determine price. Since it takes longer for a larger pearl to form, larger pearls are more expensive. Cultured pearls are sold in millimeter measurements, typically 5.0 mm to 10.00 mm. At the 8.0 mm mark, prices rise dramatically, as pearls of this size and larger are much rarer than their smaller counterparts.
Luster The term luster refers to the amount of light reflected off the pearl's surface; this unique light mirrors objects around the pearl. The organic substances that form the pearl are translucent, and the unique way they overlap gives the pearl its surface sheen. Quality pearls with a thick nacre have a rich, beautiful luster. The sharper the reflection of light off a peral's surface, the more luster a pearl has and the more valuable it is. Compare pearls side by side and the differences in luster will become readily apparent.
Shape Beautiful pearls come in many shapes. The rarest and most valuable are perfectly round. When choosing a classic necklace or bracelet, the gems should be uniform and as round as possible. (Check this by rolling the strand on a table; round pearls will roll smoothly, while off-round gems will bob up and down.) The better matched the shape of the pearls, the more valuable the piece of jewelry. Of course, beautiful jewelry can be made with pearls of any shape; modern designers are crafting unique, desirable pieces with all shapes and sizes of pearls.
Color Natural pearls come in many colors. For the most part, color is determined by the mantle of the oyster that produces the pearl. Pearl colors can be seen by looking at body tones (the overall color) together with overtones (the secondary color that can be observed by looking at the arc of the pearl under light). The most popular colors today are white, pink and black. Silver, cream and pink overtones are considered the most desirable, although color preferences are personal. Pearls should be chosen to flatter the skin tone of the person who will be wearing them.
Thickness:The thicker the nacre, the more beautiful and durable the pearl. Many factors contribute to nacre thickness. Variables such as the size of the irritant, the type of mollusk, the length of time the animal was in the water and the water temperature all affect thickness. Some cultured pearls are implanted with large irritants made of plastic or glass, so that the finished pearls appear large and durable, but are really only a thinly coated bead that will flake and peel easily. Other pearls can have small implanted beads, but are harvested prematurely, again resulting in thin nacre and a poor quality pearl. The finest cultured pearls, such as those from Moon River, are implanted with small, mother-of-pearl beads, and left to work their magic for many years. The result is a durable, gorgeous gem of 100 percent solid nacre. Such pearls can be so exquisite that it is nearly impossible to distinguish them from natural pearls.
Surface: Pearls should have a slightly rough texture, but should be free from large pits and blemishes. A pearl with a smooth surface will reflect light more readily and thus can fetch a higher price; obvious flaws lower a pearl's value. |